American Muslim women are struggling to find their own unique identity, and fashion designer Jamesa Nikiema wants to help.
The Corona woman designs clothing based on popular American trends while preserving the wearer's modesty in accordance with Muslim traditions.
Her designs, which are available at www.rebirthofchic.com, are more than just a new style of clothing. They are part of a shift in Muslim-American culture, she said.
Story continues below
Mona Ebrahim / Special to The Press-Enterprise
Sama Wareh wears a tunic designed by Corona resident Jamesa Nikiema. It incorporates American fashion trends while preserving the wearer's religious modesty.
"For the first time in history, we have third- and fourth-generation Muslims," Nikiema said. "We're finding our American identity."
To many Muslim women born and raised in the U.S., traditional Islamic clothing feels foreign, said Sadaf Syed, a photojournalist and author of "iCOVER: A Day in the Life of an American Muslim COVERed Girl."
Four years ago, Syed left her family, which is scattered throughout Orange and Riverside counties, and traveled across the country to photograph Muslim women.
She first started to notice this new style emerge five years ago, and since then its popularity grew exponentially, especially among young women.
"A lot of youth have been trying to pick up on modesty but with a western twist," she said. "They're trying to make a fusion."
These are the young women who inspire Nikiema's designs, she said.
"Who creates the art, the artist or the street? I think it's the street. They're making the look," she said.
The appearance of numerous magazines and blogs over the past few years dealing with Muslim women's fashion shows an awakening of fashion consciousness, she said.
Muslim Girl, Sisters Magazine and Modest Beautiful Muslimah all hit the shelves after 2007. Muslimette, a subscription-only online magazine also went online during that time.
Fashion blogs
Today, at least seven blogs deal with Muslim-American women's fashion, including hijabulous.blogspot.com, welovehijab.com, caribmuslima.wordpress.com, fashionablymodest.blogspot.com, dailyhijabi.com, modestplus.wordpress.com and hijabshigh.com
For young Muslim women, Nikiema's designs make clothing shopping easier, said Ajarat Bada, a 25-year-old Moreno Valley resident and one of Nikiema's clients.
"When you go to the store, you find a beautiful outfit, but there's always something wrong. It's too tight, it's too short," she said.
Bada stumbled on the Rebirth of Chic website while looking for modest clothing she could wear while working as a nurse.
"They looked nice and trendy and in a professional world it's hard to find clothing that meets these standards," she said.
Nikiema started designing fashion in 2004. In 2005, she started selling her creations at farmers markets, bazaars and other Muslim events.
"We were the only vendor there who wasn't selling traditional Islamic clothing," Nikiema recalled.
Every time she set up a shop, she sold almost everything she had. She realized then there was a demand for her clothes, so in 2006, she started selling them through her website, www.rebirthofchic.com
She aims to do more than fill a need for modest clothing, Nikiema said. Her designs make statements.
Since in American society, dressing modestly -- especially with a head scarf -- is rebellious, the first tunic she ever designed incorporated elements of punk rock fashion.
"This is being non-conformist and wearing hijab," Nikiema said.
The long-sleeved tunic comes down to the knee with tartan plaid insets on parts of the sleeves and down the front with black straps crisscrossing over it.
She makes a similar tunic of mostly green with black and yellow tartan insets as a nod to the Jamaican flag. To her, it symbolizes unity, since Jamaica won its independence when escaped slaves from many different tribes banded together to rebel against the masters.
One of her favorite combinations is an A-line black-and-white skirt coupled with a flowing balloon-sleeve blouse like those worn during Europe's Renaissance.
This hints at Nikiema's belief that Muslim women are living in an artistic renaissance in America.
For years, women either sacrificed their values to blend with Americans or dress in accordance with their values but look like a foreigner.
"All throughout my life I liked to look different and not wear what everybody else was wearing," Nikiema said. Now, she thinks Muslim women like her have the courage to look different, too.
Wrapped up in style
Shopping websites, magazines and blogs are catering to Muslim American women who want to look fashionable while dressing modestly and staying true to their faith.
Sama Wareh has a style of her own. (Christina House/ For The Times)
By Elisabeth Greenbaum Kasson, Special to the Los Angeles TimesJune 6, 2010On a recent, sunny Saturday in Orange County, 26-year-old California native Sama Wareh stood outside her apartment complex wearing a textured, brown cotton hijab, held in place by an extra-large safety pin, decorated with tiny, dangling, multicolored replicas of Russian nesting dolls. On either side of her face, she had gathered the ends of the head scarf in Native American-style laced-leather ponytail holders purchased nearby at Knott's Berry Farm. Her dress, an Empire-waisted vintage find with gray, blue and white stripes and short puffed sleeves, was supplemented for modesty with a slim, long-sleeved gray T-shirt and thick gray leggings. On her feet, she wore a pair of knee-high, naturally distressed, square-toed boots.
Organic and entirely unself-conscious, her look had the kind of effortless cool that might make a blind follower of fashion envious. A field naturalist, traveling scientist and fine artist — as well as a Muslim — Wareh draws inspiration from a variety of sources, frequently mixing it up with Renaissance dresses, cowboy hats, kilts and bold jewelry. Her personal sense of style is so unique that she's been asked by non-Muslims if what she's wearing "is allowed."
Beyond basic black
When most non-Muslims think of hijab, a stereotype of a woman in a voluminous, black dress and head scarf is the most common image conjured. But over the last three years, there's been a flood of websites, blogs and online retailers catering to religious Muslim women like Wareh who wear hijab and love style.
Often synonymous for head scarf, hijab is actually the Islamic principle of emotional and physical modesty, as mandated in the Koran, and it applies, albeit differently in terms of dress, to both women and men.
"I've been wearing hijab since seventh grade," Wareh said. "It was my choice." Her mother, who decided to wear hijab when Wareh was young, cautioned her to wait, but she was undeterred. "When people have said to me, 'You're oppressed, you can't express yourself,' I tell them that I'm not wearing what the fashion magazines say I should be wearing. I'm wearing whatever I want."
Tayyibah Taylor, the publisher and editor in chief of Azizah Magazine, a quarterly voice for contemporary Muslim women that first published in 2000, notes that faith and beauty are not mutually exclusive.
"In Islam, hijab allows us to identify ourselves as being on a spiritual path, but we can also be on a spiritual path and have flair," she said. "The terms are not incongruent. Hijab defines us not only as Muslim women but as women. We don't want to look ugly. We just don't want to be sexually provocative. A woman's body should not be part of the public conversation."
In a marketplace where magazine subscriptions are plummeting, publications for Muslim women and girls are continuing to pop up. Muslim Girl, Sisters and MBMuslimah all hit newsstands in 2007, while the online subscription site Muslimette first appeared in November 2009.
Stylish hijabis can now order funky fashion at Rebirth of Chic, sporty loose dresses called jilbabs at Silk Route and casual day wear at Shukr. Blogs with names like Hijabulous, We Love Hijab, Muslim Style Queen, Fashionably Modest, Modest Plus and Hijabs High, which is the Muslim answer to the Sartorialist, illustrate a wide variety of clothing options while celebrating individual style.
Jokima Hamidullah, the 27-year-old woman behind the online lifestyle magazine Muslimette, as well as the clothing blog We Love Hijab, is a pioneer of sorts.
Three years ago, she became the first Muslim American to blog exclusively about fashion. Born and reared in a devout Muslim home in New Jersey, Hamidullah has always been interested in stylish clothing and never felt it interfered with her faith. When she last checked, We Love Hijab's online hit count registered about 1,000 new visitors every day.
"We usually rate between two and five on Google searches for hijab," she said. "Every day, Muslimahs from all over the world log on to the site and comment about what's posted."
Taylor sees this trend as part of the evolution of the Muslim American community.
"In America, we have a microcosm of the Muslim world," she said. "There are 80 different ethnicities. It's a cultural and spiritual buffet table. American Muslims pick and choose and create their own. Establishing hijab, as both fashion and spiritual, is part of that as well. These young bloggers and the new magazines are part of the building of a cultural architecture, and what is being created is distinctly Muslim American."
Chic beginnings
Wareh's friend Jamesa Fields Nikiema, a clothing designer and owner of the online retailer Rebirth of Chic, is Carolina Herrera to Wareh's Jean Paul Gauthier. A recent outfit included a cream-colored, mid-thigh-length, ruffled blouse, with long, bell-shaped sleeves. Her hijab was made up of layers of gossamer light, off-white fabric, shot through with gold thread, which was gently draped about her head, face and neck.
Rebirth of Chic was born out of necessity. Fields Nikiema, who is 28, converted to Islam seven years ago. Afterward, she had trouble finding modest clothing that was also stylish. Off-the-rack clothing was often too short, tight in the wrong places or, if appropriate, dowdy.
"Most of the hijab clothing that was available for Muslim women was imported from Pakistan or Arab countries," said Fields Nikiema. "I could wear it, but I'm American and I didn't feel like myself. I wanted different fabrics and a wider variety."
Fields Nikiema began frequenting showrooms in downtown L.A. and hand-picked items that were hijab-friendly. If she couldn't find what she wanted, she would sketch the item and have it made. The company's clothing meets the requirements of a diverse clientele, and Orthodox Jewish women, as well as modest Christian women, have found the site.
Swimsuit solution
It was swimwear that created a conundrum for Shereen Sabet. Nine years ago, Sabet, who was raised a secular Muslim, had a spiritual awakening and decided to wear hijab. Her husband, who is also Muslim, wasn't happy about her decision but supported her. Concerned about the complications of wearing hijab and the negative attention associated with it, she struggled for six months before covering her head.
Sabet loved to scuba dive but she didn't know how to reconcile modesty with being in the water. At first, she found a solution in an expensive scuba dry suit, which wasn't form-fitting and allowed her to remain fully clothed underneath.
Shortly after that, she realized that she still couldn't go swimming in her condo's pool.
"It dawned on me that there was this situation that I never knew existed," she said. "All these Muslim women can't go swimming. Then the door opened. I thought about women with body issues and disabilities and of course other religious women, conservative Christians and Orthodox Jews. Where was the choice for women who didn't want to wear revealing bathing suits? Women want to get in the water based on their own terms, not what's available on the rack."
When Sabet couldn't find any company interested in developing a functional, attractive suit, she set out to do it on her own and created the Southern California-based swimwear company Splashgear.
The designs are simple and ingenious. When dry, the modest pants and tops are loose but still lightly shaped. When the pieces are wet, a discreet tug allows a tiny pocket of air into the top and bottom, so the suit doesn't cling to the body. According to Sabet, sales and visits to the website doubled between the summers of 2008 and 2009.
Finding the Silver Lining
Writer, photographer, filmmaker and fashionable feminist Mona Ebrahim sees a humorous side to hijab. She's writing a book titled "101 Reasons Why I'm Glad I Wear Hijab." She hopes it will amuse and educate, as well as convince readers that the edict is not a symbol of oppression for all Muslim women.
" I was in college when I decided to wear hijab," she said. "I was on a spiritual journey and had done a lot of soul searching. When I told my father, he cried."
Ebrahim's father, who emigrated to the U.S. from Egypt, was sure she would be hurt personally and professionally. Her mother, whom she describes as being more spiritual, understood her choice and got him to come around.
Now 33, after years of stylish modesty, Ebrahim lists a few of the 101 things she loves about her choice:
Sama Wareh creates fun, modern looks surrounding her head covering. (Christina House/For The Times)
Jamesa Nikiema, chief executive of Rebirth of Chic, of Corona, shows off one of her modern Islamic designs for women. She is wearing a ruffled high-collared blouse and crochet vest with a "bubble and flow' applique skirt.( Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times )
Candita Potts of Torrance models a white poplin balloon-sleeve top with a denim "bonanza" skirt from Rebirth of Chic.(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Amani Bibi models a design by Jamesa Nikiema of Rebirth of Chic. The top is a gathered leaf-green cotton blouse.( Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times )
Many American stores have started introducing Muslim-friendly Western fashions. (Google)
CAIRO Keeping abreast with the latest fashion designs while maintaining their Islamic identity, a growing numbers of American Muslim women are adapting western trends into Muslim-friendly ones.
"I absolutely love how you can be modest and fashionable at the same time," Abeer Minhas, a New Yorker, told the South California-based InFocus newspaper on Friday, May 1.
The 20-year old has many solutions to turn the new fashion styles that do not suit Muslim women into becoming a Muslim-friendly.
"For example, if I see a top that I absolutely love but is a little too revealing for me, its fun to see how you can add layers to make your own personal fashion statement even more effective," said Abeer.
Her sister Narmeen, 22, has other solutions.
"I bought some really cute dresses - knee length, sleeveless - that I'm going to wear under jeans and a white long shirt and boots.
"I think that you can adapt any style to be modest and trendy."
Both sisters say they were inspired by clothing trends they have seen during a recent visit to the Middle East.
"Anyone from the Middle East has a distinct style in which they take western fashions and adapt them toward their Islamic interests," said Abeer.
"When we traveled to Turkey, my sister and I were just awestruck at how beautiful the clothes were and how they covered every inch of your body."
The US has an estimated Muslim population of nearly 7 million.
Booming
Meeting the Muslim women's needs, many American stores have started introducing Western fashions with a Muslim twist.
"Sometimes it's hard to find the right Islamic-type blouse in North America to sell in the store, so it has to be ordered overseas," said Moniza Bhaghani, owner of Hidaaya Books and Clothing in Diamond Bar, California.
In her store, Bhaghani, a Muslim convert who is half Latina, sells the Rebirth of Chic brand of inexpensive Western clothing adapted to be Muslim-friendly.
"I talk to customers about what they would like and keep in mind that things have to be a length in which women can pray."
Bhaghani is also trying to incorporate local fabrics and designs, though, to keep it Western-themed.
"Sometimes colors used overseas are not in fashion here, so I send them a palette using magazines and tell them to find the closest match," she said.
The Muslim woman also offers long skirts and tops, scarves of different materials from cotton to shiny metallics, and tunics that younger people like to wear with jeans.
Eying a share of the growing market, Terry Cormier opened a department store for selling Muslim women's clothes in Anaheim, California, two years ago.
"We had a Web site before then, and people kept showing up at our house thinking it was the store, so we just decided to open a store," Cormier said.
Cormier says the demand for modest clothes is growing among young Muslim women.
"Modern stuff for younger sisters is in good demand," she said, pointing out that she receives a lot of business from the 30 and under crowd.
"They want an American style with an Islamic identity."
American stores like Urban Outfitters have also adopted Middle East traditional wear, from the keffiyahs to dresses and shoes.
For Narmeen, being a Muslim adds another important dimension to how she dresses.
"I also think that hijabis should look nice, i.e., I coordinate matching scarves with my clothes, because we stand out as "Muslim", and I think it's important to defeat the rumors that Muslim women are suppressed and unhappy."
Working at a fashion showroom, I get a lot of buyers that walk into the confusing, revolving door at the front. There are the ordinary L.A. women who walk in with their knee high boots, pleated mini skirts, and off the shoulder tops. There are the N.Y. women who come in with their ankle boots, stockings, and chic jackets with cropped dark hair. But today, I met a humble girl, dressed as the most stylish Muslim girl I've ever seen. Her name is Jamesa and she runs a Couture Islamic Apparel website catering to those girls that don't want to have to sacrifice style for the religion they are devoted to. Clothing offered at ReBirth of Chic include clothes that cover arms and legs as well as fun layering pieces to create your own unique looks. Even if you aren't Muslim, you'll find great chic items that will soon become staples in your wardrobe. And to top it all off, if you sign up to become a member, you'll receive 15% off your purchase. It's as easy as that.
For more information and to see their inventory of fun and fashionable clothing, visit rebirthofchic.com
Garments were loose-fitting, longer and sporty but as stylish as clothing on any runway. The difference? These conformed to Islamic modesty
Friday, November 24, 2006
VIVIAN McINERNY
The hall went dark and a hush fell over the crowd. But when the music started and the spotlight shone on the catwalk, the all-woman audience cheered to see a slender model hit the stage in a chic designer dress . . . and hijab. About 320 women attended The Muslim Educational Trust's first benefit fashion show Saturday night at Portland State University, an event that put the mod in modesty -- and proved that hijab, modest dress worn by Islamic women, can be highly stylish. Islamic theology requires modesty in thought, behavior and dress. That's not always easy when surrounded by pop culture that encourages the opposite. "We have a hard time finding what we need," said Majeda Hodroj, who is originally from Lebanon but now calls Oregon home. "We have to buy extra-large so it won't be (immodestly) tight, and then it is too big at the shoulders." At the fashion show, Muslim vendors from Oregon and elsewhere who specialize in modest clothing showed their wares on the runway and sold them in the foyer afterward. The fashions honor ancient tradition but were certainly made for modern life:
Any fashion-savvy college student probably could see the influence of Vivienne Westwood in the black skirt with pockets, tabs and red plaid inserts by Rebirth of Chic. But instead of a sky-high mini length, the skirt fell to the ankles.
Love Rebirth Of Chic Clothing? Please Sign Our Guest Book & Share Us With Your Friends:
